DAY 12 Southeast Asia: Wonders of Cambodia, Vietnam & the Mekong
Today began early, with suitcases placed in the hallway by 7 a.m. We moved quickly - getting ready, grabbing breakfast, and heading to the lounge to depart the ship. Soon we boarded the bus with the Red Group, joined by our new guide, Nhwar, and setting off for a day that would prove both eye-opening and emotionally complex.
Our morning excursion took us to the Cu Chi Tunnels outside of Ho Chi Minh City in southern Vietnam, where we learned about the tactics, conditions and strategies used during what Vietnam refers to as the “American War.” The site includes samples of the various horrific boobytraps that were used by the North Vietnam army (and Viet Cong) to kill & maim South Vietnamese and American solders as they hiked through the jungles and grasslands. It was noted that these horrific devices broke the spirit of the South Vietnamese and American solders since it was terrifying to realize what could happen at any step. Seeing the narrow underground systems and learning how they were used by the South Vietnamese people to hide during the day before attacking at night provided perspective on how far they were willing to go for their cause. A North Vietnamese promotional / propaganda film produced during the war shown on-site portrayed Americans as invading devils, a stark and disturbing reminder that history is shaped by perspective, and that the wounds of war linger long after the fighting ends.
Chris chose to enter one of the tunnels and made his way through a short section, about 20 meters, or roughly 60 feet, emerging back above ground. Nearby was a live artillery range, where visitors could pay a minimum of $30 to fire ten rounds from an AK-47. The sound was deafening, and the echo of gunfire followed us through much of the grounds, an unsettling soundtrack layered onto an already heavy experience.
Afterward, we headed to a local restaurant and workshop. Artists there were creating intricate lacquered paintings using eggshells and pieces of beach shells, transforming delicate materials into stunning works of art. We purchased a painting along with a few local food treats. Lunch followed at the same location and included spring rolls, Saigon beer, and pho, a comforting chicken and noodle soup. Everything was delicious and grounding after the intensity of the morning.
In the evening, Chris and I set out again, this time for a One Night in Saigon tour beginning at 6 p.m. And wow, what a contrast. The city came alive in a completely different way: vibrant, noisy, chaotic and somehow charming.
Our small group included an American couple from North Carolina, an Australian couple, two women from England, and our guide, Van. We traveled around in a comfortable Ford van, stopping first at a local restaurant where we enjoyed spring rolls and made our own fresh vegetable rolls. From there, we headed to a neighborhood pub to sample local beers. I loved the lemon seltzer, and we shared a flight of beers as we talked and laughed.
Next stop was a second-floor restaurant where we sampled a variety of appetizers, some were hits (tofu and French fries), some misses (fried chicken cartilage). The evening continued at a famous hotel with a rooftop bar, offering sweeping views of Ho Chi Minh City lit up at night. The band playing on the rooftop was drowned out by the band playing below on the wide plaza used for festivals. We observed thousands of people partying on the plaza and thousands more driving by on their ubiquitous motorbikes. On weekends, much of the downtown area is closed to traffic and transforms into a massive street party. Kids ran freely, teens gathered in groups, and people of all ages filled the streets.
The traffic was wild and motorbikes everywhere. Crossing the street here requires confidence: raise your hand, step forward and trust the flow. Somehow, it works.
By the time we made it back to the hotel, we were exhausted but exhilarated. What a day. From the weight of history underground to the electric pulse of Saigon at night, it was a powerful reminder of how layered, complex and alive this place truly is.