DAY 9: Southeast Asia: Wonders of Cambodia, Vietnam & the Mekong
Today we explored Goeng Island, also known as Mango Island, along the upper Mekong River. This area is largely untouched by tourism. We traveled by boat to shore and then boarded a remork tuk-tuk to visit a family home where three generations live together and produce mangos. The fruit was bright yellow-orange, sweet and juicy. We bought some dried mango to share with our family back home. Riding through the island was refreshing, winding along inner and outer paths lined with corrugated-roof homes, open fronts with hammocks, and animals roaming freely. Roosters were often kept in domed cages to prevent escape. Small storefronts dotted the roads, many specializing in one product, whether it be tires, tiles or food, with a few general shops mixed in.
We visited a local craftsman who has spent over fifty years building traditional wooden canoe-style boats entirely by hand. Each boat costs about $350 and lasts roughly seven years. He heats the wood over fire to bend it and uses rubber tree resin to waterproof it. These boat builders are considered well-off, since nearly everyone on the island depends on boats for transportation and fishing. Though newer composite boats are being imported, many locals still prefer the stability and weight of traditional wooden ones.
Next, we toured an incense-making family business producing unscented, sandalwood and cinnamon incense for wholesale. Two boys, ages 11 and 9, had just returned from morning school and were already running machines that cut the incense sticks. The air was thick with layered scents, cooking food, fish, garbage, and incense, an unmistakable mix of daily life here. Notably, spirit houses were fewer and much simpler than those we’d seen in Cambodia.
We returned to the ship around 11:30 a.m. and later set sail toward My An Hung Village. Pistachio ice cream was a highlight after lunch, followed by coffee and tea in the lounge as we rested for the afternoon excursion.
At My An Hung Village, we took a short sampan ride ashore and walked to a nearby farmstead. There, we listened to traditional folk music, sung and played guitar, banjo and violin. Charlene had a try at the violin, and it was quite squeaky! We were invited to guess what the songs were about, and surprisingly, it wasn’t difficult. Tea and biscuits followed, small waffle-like treats and pastries filled with coconut jam.
We then walked through the village along the river, observing daily life: people working, running shops, relaxing at home, and even one man bathing in the river with a bar of soap. We crossed a rickety bridge and glimpsed a “Monkey Bridge,” named for the crouched posture required to cross it safely. Our final stop was a coconut farm, where the 84-year-old owner and his younger wife shared fresh coconut juice straight from the fruit. He had only stopped climbing the trees about six months ago. As thunder rumbled and the sky darkened, we returned to the boat.
At 6 p.m., the ship hosted a Taste of Asia event with regional liquors and snacks. I tried a mango spirit, surprisingly good, while Chris sampled Saigon beer (a hit) and rice wine (not so much). Crew members dressed in traditional wedding attire from Vietnam, Cambodia and Myanmar (their nationalities) and shared stories about marriage customs in their cultures. After the port talk, we enjoyed an Asian-themed dinner, though Chris opted for steak and fries, which he declared excellent.
That night, we sailed downstream toward Sa Dec. After a short rest for me and a walk on the top deck for Chris, we met in the lounge to watch a BBC documentary about the Mekong River featuring many of the places we’ve already visited. It felt like watching our own journey unfold on screen.
Time for bed as we flow along the river.